Objective 4000! Mount Rose 4558m

Maximum 4 participants per guide
4000m is the symbolic bar we’ll be crossing !
2 nights in a high mountain refuge (no running water! )
580mbar is the atmospheric pressure in fine weather at 4500m (1013 mbar at 0 m), hence the importance of acclimatization prior to the trip…

This Swiss-Italian border massif boasts more than a dozen peaks over 4000m.
The summit of Monte Rosa is actually made up of 5 peaks, the highest of which is the Pointe Dufour (4634m).

Atop the Gnifetti peak (4558m) is the Margherita Refuge, the highest in Europe ! The surrounding peaks are also highly aesthetic, and form part of the famous “Spaghetti-Tour”, a multi-day glacier traverse… on the Italian side, as the name suggests!

For our trip, we’d like to mention the Castor (4223 m) and its famous snow ridge, or the easiest and most accessible, Pyramide Vincent (4215 m).

But the ease of access to this massif shouldn’t blind us to the fact that we’re at altitude, and that prior acclimatization in the mid-range mountains will enable us to make the most of our stay.

Day 1 : Off to Italy! We meet up at Gressonney, where we pack our bags and take the lifts.

Two routes are now possible (depending on weather and group experience)

Roaming :
For this itinerary, we climb to the Quintino Sella Refuge at 3585 m in 1000 m ascent from the chairlift.
Day 2 is a return ascent of the famous Castor summit (4223 m). Its low altitude (around 700 m) and technical ease make it ideal for gentle acclimatization.
Day 3, after rising at dawn, we set off for a big day of glacier traversing under the famous Lyskamm ridge. The challenge of the day will be the ascent of the Nazo du Lyskamm (4272 m), with its mixed climbing and snow/ice slope of around 80 m at 45°. Well secured at the top by the rope, this key passage enables us to descend to the famous Lys glacier. Our descent then continues to the Mantova hut for a well-deserved break before heading back up the valley from the Indren cable car (3250 m).

Around refuges :
The Citta di Mantova (3440m) and Gnifetti (3590m) refuges, only 150m apart in altitude, offer us an ideal base camp from which to discover the surrounding peaks.
Day 1 : a 1h30 hike to the glacier gives us the opportunity to perfect or discover our cramponing technique.
Day 2 : acclimatization and a slower pace are required to reach the Pyramide Vincent at 4215 m. This glacier hike is easy and takes place on large, magnificent glaciers. The return to the hut in the afternoon gives us a chance to enjoy the day and get some rest for the following day.
Day 3 : dawns much earlier to reach our goal: the Punta Gnifetti at 4558 m. Never technically difficult, here it’s all about endurance and perseverance. A visit to Europe’s highest mountain hut and a good break at the summit will give us the strength we need to head back down to the valley, with images of the high mountains in our heads!

Price :
From 880€/person

Included :
3 days with a UIAGM mountain guide
2 nights half-board in refuge
Ski lifts

Not included :
Transport to Greyssoney
All drinks
Lunch
Personal insurance

Level :
Good hiking experience is required. First experience of walking with crampons is welcome, but not essential.
Depending on the summits chosen, some passages may be aerial, so don’t hesitate to discuss this with your guide.

Group size :
For groups of 2 to 4 people, we can organize this trip on the dates that suit you best. Don’t hesitate to contact us !